Installing Iron Balusters

Iron Baluster Installation

A few observations: Before we get in to installation steps for iron balusters, let me bring your attention to some of the peculiarities of iron balusters.

• You will notice that the square balusters have a round section near the top of the square ½” in diameter. This is used to fit into the handrail. You simply drill a ½” diameter hole into the bottom of the handrail and insert the round portion of the baluster. The bottom of the baluster will need to be cut.
• You should also notice that there are “shoes” available for the bottoms of the square balusters. The ½” (12mm) shoe is for the ½” baluster and the 9/16” shoe is for the 9/16” (14mm) baluster.
• The angled shoes are for a “knee wall” stair design. These fit on the bottom of the baluster as well as the “flat” shoes but are angled to accommodate the angle of the knee wall.
• A few of our balusters are round throughout their length and do not require shoes. Simply drill the diameter appropriate to the baluster and insert it.

Marking and measuring the balusters:

After installing the stair treads, risers and newels, you should temporarily install the handrails throughout. This will enable you to use the marks (for the balusters) that you have made on the treads and “plumb” them up to the bottom of the handrail. This will enable you also to determine the baluster lengths. You should add about 1 ½” to your baluster length for inserting the balusters into the tread and handrail.
Note: You should be aware of the stair code for your community. In most cases a 4” sphere should not be capable of passing between the balusters. So in virtually all cases you will need 3 balusters per tread.

Cutting the Balusters:

The iron balusters are typically 44” in length and, as such, will need to be cut. As we noted above in most cases you will be cutting the bottom of the baluster so that the ½” round pin at the top of the baluster can be used to insert into the bottom of the handrail. There are a few ways of cutting iron balusters. A cut off saw can be rented form a tool rental store with a carborundum metal cutting blade. Some folks use a side grinder with a thin metal cutting wheel. A portable metal cutting band saw is a good choice – fewer sparks. Whatever method you use remember to add 1 ½” to the overall length for insertion into the hand rail and treads.

Drilling the holes:

As we have already said, the handrail bottom should be drilled with a ½” diameter drill bit. The hole size in the treads, however, will vary depending on the size of the balusters you have chosen. A ½” (12mm) baluster will require a ¾” hole in the tread. A 9/16” (14mm) baluster will require a 13/16” hole in the tread. If you have purchased round balusters simply drill the handrail and tread hole the same diameter as the baluster.

Installing the balusters:

You should at this time remove the handrail so that the balusters can be installed. Place the baluster shoe onto the bottom of the baluster and wrap a piece of freezer tape to hold it a three or four inches above the bottom of the baluster. Insert the appropriate balusters in the tread holes and use our formulated glue or a two part epoxy to fill the tread hole around the baluster. Before the glue sets place the handrail onto the tops of the balusters and drive it down to the proper height. Secure the handrail and let the glue cure. After the glue has cured the shoes can be untapped and secured to the bottom of the baluster wit ha set screw.