I have always had a fascination with stair designs. Stairways are one of those unique architectural elements in a home that serves two purposes.
- It is functional to get from level 1 to level 2.
- It can be beautiful, creating an aesthetic focal point in your home.
And so, it is my purpose here to share some of the options that are available to homeowners in their stair design. You may notice that some of the resource articles I have on Archturnings.com will overlap the sections on this article. So if you browse around my site you'll find similar but smaller articles such as balusters arrangement, etc.
The first thing I would like to discuss is the newels and the options for incorporating the newels and handrails. Newels, of course, are the primary columns in a stair case that help to support the handrail. They typically are located at the terminal point of the staircase. For example, there is one at the base of the stairs, at the top of the stairs and at any breaking points of any landing. Long balcony sections may include additional supporting newels. |
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Post-to-post newels: A post-to-post newel receives the handrail at a “flat” near the top of the newel. The handrail terminates at each newel. The post-to-post newel rises above the handrail. See my graphic.
Among the post-to-post newels, there exist a few options. |
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Probably the most common is the “turned” newel. A turned newel has been manufactured on a turning lathe and is therefore round in its sections with typically flats at the bottom. Box newels, on the other hand, are simply newels that have a box shape. They are not round at all. They are ornamented with raised and recessed panels, fluting and reeding and occasionally carving. |
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Over-the-post newels:
An over-the-post newel sets below the handrail. The handrail passes over it hence the name, over-the-post. The handrail in this case is said to be a continuous handrail. In an over-the-post staircase, one could continuously hold on to the handrail without removing his hand.  |
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Smaller over-the-post newels typically have a fitting attached to the top that joins the handrail. The fitting is purchased with the handrail and has the same profile (shape) as the handrail. But, for a larger newel, a newel cap is fitted to the top of the newel. This newel cap miters into the handrail/fitting to make a continuous handrail.
Open versus closed stringers: Stringers are the supporting framework that holds the treads and risers of the staircase. The two main options that are available for stair cases is the open stringer and the closed stringer. (Of course it is possible to have a stairway that is enclosed on both sides by walls but that is not what we are discussing here.) An open stringer has the ends of the treads exposed whereas a closed stringer type stairway sort of caps off the tread ends. In this case the balusters are all the same length and do not connect to the treads but connect instead to a small "knee wall" that rises above the tread. See my graphic to the right.
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Baluster arrangement
There are two options for arranging your stair balusters. |
 The first option is to have the baluster bases oriented horizontally with the treads and the baluster tops following the rake angle of the handrail.The second option has both baluster tops and bottoms following the rake angle of the handrail. See my graphics. |
| In the first case the “turned” lengths of the balusters vary as well as the overall lengths. In the second case, the “turned” length of the balusters is the same although the overall length varies. |
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Alternating balusters: This is probably a good place to write about the use of alternating balusters. Alternating the type of baluster used in a stairway can add interest. See my photo. In some cases this can become quite “busy” but some customers live for “busy”. When alternating balusters, you should use similar bases and/or tops in my opinion to create a sort of theme. Alternate the baluster centers with plain tapers, fluting, rope or barley twist, etc. You can see examples of alternating balusters here:
Carpet versus wood treads. In some cases homeowners will want their staircases carpeted. Why you might want to carpet your beautiful wood treads:
- Carpeting can protect the finish on the treads
- Carpeting can provide more traction and
- Carpeting will cushion a fall somewhat better than a hardwood tread.
Negatively carpeting generally does not look as nice as wood. There are a few options for carpeting. I’ll start from the least expensive to the most expensive. The least costly is to simply carpet the entire treads and risers. Of course, you will get what you pay for. This is the least expensive option and also the least attractive. A second method is to install tread caps that are 6-8” long. The carpet is installed between the tread caps. And lastly, the most expensive way is to install full treads and risers and put a carpet runner over the treads. Tacks or staples help to secure the carpet under the tread nosing as well as a carpet rod fastened between riser and tread. |
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Stair finish considerations.
I occasionally am asked about the best way to finish a stairway. The most traditional pattern (in my humble opinion) is to alternate paint and stain. In this scheme handrails are stained, balusters are painted, treads are stained and risers are painted. More often than not the newel is stained but in some parts of the country the newel is traditionally painted. It is really up to the individual tastes of the homeowners as to what is preferred. In more formal settings some prefer an all stained stairway.
Iron balusters |
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